The Italian Alps, in particular the Dolomites, have been trending all over social media for the last couple years and like the rest of the world, I was blown away by the spectacular views posted by other travelers. After extensive planning and working up the courage to make the trip as a solo traveler, I finally made this bucket list trip a reality.
I wanted to make the most of my time in the mountainous region so I limited my exploration to Val Gardena. Although the drives from one place to another are beautiful, I didn’t want to spend all my time in the car. I instead spent each day hiking specific parks.
As part of my trip, I also spent a couple of days in Venice, since that’s the best place to rent a car and make the drive out to the Italian Alps. And I had never visited this canal city, so I didn’t want to miss out on the historic architecture and of course, delicious food.
What I Saw
Day 1
The way my flights worked out, I arrived in Munich. It had been almost ten years since I had visited this city during my college days and wandering around the old town brought back some fun memories.
I walked around Marienplatz, the city-center square with St. Peter’s Church. I had all intentions of going to Hofbrauhaus, a large and boisterous beer hall that I had visited my first time here, but the jet lag kicked in so after an early dinner on a quiet street, I made the trek back to my hotel.
Day 2
The next day, I headed out to catch my early morning train from Munich to Venice. This seven hour ride takes you through the Austrian countryside, Italian Alps, and the very northern part of Italy’s Veneto region. I had plans of napping on this long journey, but the views were so beautiful that I ended up taking it all in from my window seat the whole trip.
The last time I traveled in Europe by train was in college and it’s still the same. I think train travel is the best option to see the small towns and countryside.
The train took me right to the island of Venice and I made my way through the winding streets to my hotel. Venice is not like any city I have ever visited before. The way the city is built around the canals is amazing and unique. As I crossed bridges and passed through city squares, I couldn’t help smiling as I was presented with so many great views of the water and the bustling city life.
I dropped my things at my hotel and grabbed a snack and set off to sight see and take photos to my heart’s content. The popular sites were packed with tourists. Considering it was summer time, I wasn’t surprised. Walking on the narrow streets, at times, was a struggle but made for some fun people watching.
Wandering around, I came across Ponte di Rialto, one of the major bridges in Venice. This was one of the most crowded places, but the view of the Grand Canal is great. I didn’t spend too much time here after getting a couple pictures.
I made my way over to Piazza San Marco which is bordered by the Basilica di San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, and the Campanile di San Marco. I was amazed by how large these structures are. The architecture is beautiful and made for some great photos. I used this first day to get my bearings in Venice and as I had plans to come back at the end of my trip, I made a list of places that I wanted to come back to and take a tour of the inside.
I continued exploring the small streets of Venice and coming across quiet access points to the water. As you should in Italy, I did all this with a gelato in hand.
Day 3
The day to make the drive out to the mountains had finally come. I took a bus to the Venice airport to pick up my rental car and set out on my adventure. I had planned for a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Val Gardena, my home base for the Dolomites part of the trip, but I hit a massive rain storm so with the winding roads and backed up traffic, it took me about four hours. Although the drive was slow, the views were absolutely spectacular. The rain clouds and fog dotting the mountains created a beautiful landscape. Every turn I took, I was met with an even more breathtaking view. The Italian Alps are unlike any mountain range I’ve seen before. The jagged, rocky mountains protruding from green rolling hills is such a dichotomy but incredibly beautiful.
After settling down in my hotel, I grabbed my hiking gear and made my way to Vallunga Valley. Located right in the heart of the Puez Odle Park, Vallunga Valley has dramatic views of the mountains. It has an easy trail making it the perfect afternoon stroll.
By the time I took a hot shower and changed into my cozy sweatpants, the rain clouds let up a little and I enjoyed the sunset from my hotel balcony. These were the ultimate mountain vibes.
Day 4
I had an early morning setting out for Seceda, a mountain in the Odle/Geisler group. This is perhaps the most famous viewpoint in the Dolomites. I would recommend getting here early since parking can be difficult and the line for the cable car can get long. The cable car in Ortisei takes you directly up to the Seceda viewpoint. Although this is the main attraction, this is the beginning of a scenic trail that takes you to Rifugio Firenze.
Hiking in the Dolomites has a unique perk that each area and mountain region is dotted with huts or rifugios that serve as rest stops for hikers and backpackers. All of these huts offer food and drinks and some have beds for overnight backpackers. I planned all my hikes to pass through a couple huts so I could stop for lunch and bathroom breaks. And of course, all these huts have the same majestic views. It’s an excellent way to explore the mountains without worrying about running out of snacks or trying to find a bathroom.
The hike down to Rifugio Firenze took me along the ridgeway of Seceda. Since it was the summer, many of the farm animals were roaming around so I got some close-up moments with cows and donkeys.
After a rather heavy lunch, I started making my way back up the mountain side. The elevation of Seceda is about 8000 feet and my lungs were definitely feeling it. I stopped several times to admire the view (aka catch my breath) but finally made it back up. I ended up spending the whole day here. Each area provides a different view of the surrounding mountains and it’s breathtaking.
Seceda Route: Cable car in Ortisei – Seceda viewpoint – Seceda Ridgeline – Odle Peaks – Rifugio Firenze – Baita Troier – Seceda Mountain Station/Cable Car
I spent the late afternoon and evening walking around the small town of Selva di Val Gardena where my hotel was located. It has cute shops and restaurants with lots of people enjoying the weather with drinks. I had dinner and called it an early night while enjoying the mountain air on my hotel balcony. This became a ritual for me as the views from my room were just splendid.
Day 5
The next day I also had an early morning with a drive to Alpe Di Siusi, the largest mountain pasture in Europe. I took another cable car up to the meadow and began my trek. Since this is a large pasture, it’s mostly flat with some rolling hills with mountain ranges in the background. This created a very leisure hike while still being able to enjoy the views. I took some random pathways, exploring the vast meadows, taking pictures, and watching the cows and horses graze nearby. I stopped by Baita Sanon, another hut, for lunch and a drink before making my way back to the cable car station. Right before getting back to the cable car station, I stumbled upon a farm with alpacas, specifically baby alpacas, which were so cute.
Alpe Di Siusi Route: Ortisei-Alpe di Siusi Ropeway/Mountain Station – Saltria – Rauchhütte – Gostner Schwaige – Hotel Steger Dellai – Baita Sanon – Mountain Station
After taking a quick break at my hotel, I went for a short drive around Val Gardena – the road is called Passo Gardena. The roads are well kept and the view points are great to stop and take in the majesty of the mountain range. Fair warning – the roads are very narrow and have tight curves. Also, you share the road with large buses and trucks so be prepared to drive carefully, especially with the sheer cliff sides.
Day 6
I had slept early the night before and ended up waking up in time for sunrise and wow, was I rewarded. The view from my balcony was incredible, it was like the mountains were bathed in gold.
After breakfast at the hotel, I drove to Santa Maddalena and Val di Funes. Val di Funes is famous for the breathtaking sunset views. I started my day off with the Adolf Munkel trail, which starts at the entrance of the Puez-Odle Park. This hike was more similar to what I’m used to in California, with a mix of mountain views through openings and pathways that are covered by the forest. Since the trail went closer to the base of the mountains, you got a close view of the tree line – the altitude at which trees stop growing.
I stopped at a couple huts along the way. This trail was more crowded than Seceda and Alpe di Suisi with people from all over Europe. I was able to chat with several of these groups and it was great to hear their stories.
On my way back to Val Gardena, I stopped at a couple wineries. I unfortunately did not get to do any tastings, but the views were gorgeous.
Day 7
After an early breakfast, I packed up my car and made the drive back to the Venice airport. It was bittersweet to leave Val Gardena and the bed and breakfast. As I was leaving I took a moment to take in the sun-kissed mountains surrounding me. I told myself that I’d need to come back here in the near future.
The drive back was long but just as beautiful. The roads are very narrow and is only one lane that winds up and down the mountains making the drive slow. You pass through some cute towns along the way. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to stop in any of them since I had to return the car before noon.
After dropping off the car, I made my way to the island of Venice and checked in to my Airbnb. I was excited to check out the different sites I had walked around a couple days ago. Since it was peak summertime, most of the sites stay open late so I grabbed a snack and walked over to the Doge’s Palace. I spent a couple hours admiring the architecture of this former palace and then center of government for the state of Venice. I would recommend getting a tour guide, especially if you’re not as familiar with the history of Venice. I remembered tidbits from my high school European history class but not enough to really understand the significance of what I was looking at. Regardless, the palace is massive and the architecture is beautiful. You can also tour the prison cells at the level of the water.
The ticket to the palace also includes access to nearby museums – the Correr Museum, the National Archaeological Museum and Monumental Rooms. Both had good collections without being overwhelming. As I was in one of the museums, I got a glimpse of a rehearsal of the Italian band, Pooh, right on the piazza. It’s an absolutely amazing venue to attend a concert.
Day 8
I started off my last full day in Venice with a tour of the local market. I had promised my parents that I would bring home some spices and pastas. They also had a fish market that was fun to browse. I saw so many types of fish and seafood and all of it was incredibly fresh.
After dropping off my shopping back at my Airbnb, I walked to the south part of the island for a pre-booked walking tour. This area is more artsy with many students and is not as crowded with tourists as Piazza San Marco. We saw the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute, a baroque style cathedral housing works by Titian. This church is located right at the tip of the southern island and you can get quite a view of the Doge’s Palace and the surrounding buildings along the water. We also learned of the most haunted mansion in Venice that now sits empty and about Penny Guggenheim and her home, now turned museum.
After a leisurely walk back to the main part of the city and a late lunch, I finally got in line to see Saint Mark’s Basilica. The line to get in is long, but moves fairly quickly. They are very strict on the dress code (no shorts or short dresses and shoulders must be covered) so make sure to dress accordingly. The cathedral is massive and beautiful from the outside and inside.
I also made my way up Saint Mark’s Campanile and the view didn’t disappoint. You get a 360-degree view of the city and it’s gorgeous.
As it was my last day in Venice, after an early dinner, I walked around random streets, taking in the beauty of this unique city as the sun set.
What I Ate
Munich
Since I had only one night in Munich, I wanted my meal to count. I stopped at Weinhaus Neuner, a Bavarian and Austrian restaurant located on a quiet street coming off of Marienplatz. I got a seat outside and this was the epitome of a European summer dinner. I started off with a glass of white wine to combat the summer heat and settled in to the pre-fixe menu courses. It was a total of four courses and each one was delicious. The standouts were the main entrée of a flaky fish seared to perfection over a creamy risotto and the dessert which was a cheesecake with a small dollop of gelato.
Dolomites (Val Gardena)
As I was hiking most of each day, I made sure that each meal was nutritious and would keep me full and energized throughout the day. I started out each day with a full breakfast at my hotel. This was an excellent way to start my day.
Since I used to be out in the parks during the day, all my lunches in the Dolomites were at rifugios. The food at these huts is a mix of Italian, German, and Austrian food and is hearty. Also, they all serve beer and wine, making them a great stop for lunch or just a break. The best part of these huts was the view. Each one had a spectacular view over the mountains. In Seceda, I stopped at Rifugio Firenze, where I had a tomato risotto and aperol spritz. I think this was my favorite spot because of the view.
In Alpe di Suisi, I stopped at Baita Sanon. I had the goulash with polenta and decided to treat myself with an apple strudel.
In Val di Funes, along the Adolf Munkel Trail, I stopped at Malga Casnago. I had the goulash again but decided to pair it with dumplings. I liked this better than the polenta since it soaked up the gravy from the goulash better.
After being active all day, I was ready to replenish all the calories with dinner. One night, I stopped at Restaurant Nives which is located right on the main street and since I sat outside on the patio, it made for great people watching. I had a red shrimp pasta with a side of grilled vegetables. Both hit the spot after a long day.
Another day, I went to Sal Feur. This is known for pizza but I’m a big pasta person so went for their recommendation of the venison pappardelle. I had never had venison before so was a little hesitant but it was delicious. A great option for a chilly evening. I also had the tiramisu which was to die for.
Venice
Restaurants
A lot of the time while exploring Venice, I didn’t always have time for a sit-down meal so found small, hole-in-the-wall places to get food to go. And these were delicious. Locally these small plates are known as cicchetti. I’d say these are the closest to tapas and are popular in bars. Some of the more popular dishes are baccala, a creamed codfish dish served on crostini, and fried seafood. It depends on what restaurants and bars have on hand that day and the cicchetti menu can change day-to-day.
My first day there, I was so excited to explore, I picked up some squid ink arancini at Acqua e Mais. This is a small stall that I walked past the first time but has the freshest seafood snacks. It was a great stop to tide me over till dinner.
That first day, I decided to have gelato for dinner (peak adulting decision) and stumbled across Gelateria Gallonetto that had a line out the door and along the entire block. I ended up waiting in line and it was worth the wait. I got the tiramisu and stracciatella flavors, both were excellent but the tiramisu stood out more.
After coming back from the mountains, I was ready to dive into some seafood, specifically seafood pastas. I had done some research before I left and had Al Covo on my list. I stopped here right as they opened for lunch since I didn’t have a reservation and thankfully was seated immediately. I think this was my favorite meal of the trip, not only because of the food, which was excellent but the service was on another level. Everyone was very sweet and knowledgeable. I started out with fresh mozzarella and the ricotta stuffed zucchini blossoms. For my main, I got the linguine with clams and I could have eaten like three bowls of this, it was so good. For dessert, I had their dark chocolate cake and this was heaven for chocolate lovers. I was in a slight food coma after this meal.
Another day, for lunch, I stopped by L’ Bacaro de’ Bischeri, a small sandwich shop. And wow, this may have been the best sandwich I’ve had. The menu was written in Italian so I wasn’t a hundred percent sure what I was ordering but I saw pesto and rolled with it. The cured meats were sliced fresh with the bread still warm and vegetables bright and juicy. There wasn’t really a spot to sit and eat and the sandwich was massive so I stood out in the local square stuffing my face. I think I got some looks from some local children, but I was too busy enjoying my sandwich.
My last night in Venice, I stopped by a small mom-and-pop restaurant, Al Mascaron. As soon as you walk in, you’re greeted by the restaurant owner, a sweet old man, and you feel like you’ve entered your grandparents’ home. I’d been craving some squid ink pasta and this was the place to have it. It was creamy and came out steaming. It was the perfect comfort food to end my trip. And of course, since it was my last night, I had to have dessert and what other quintessential Italian dessert to have than tiramisu. During my meal, the grandchildren of the owners came to visit and it was so cute to see the whole family interact. Some of the best service in Venice, you feel like you’re part of the family.
Bars
Venice has a vibrant nightlife and drinking scene, from small, hole-in-the-wall wine bars to craft cocktail speakeasy-vibe bars. These are catered to locals and tourists alike. I also noticed that the crowds were relatively young and a mix of tourists and locals, particularly university students.
My first stop was Harry’s Bar where the Bellini was invented. I stopped in in the middle of the day to beat the heat and the crowds and it was the perfect refresh before continuing to explore. The drinks were a little pricier than what you would get at other bars, but it’s worth dropping in for the vibe and a Bellini, it was delicious.
The same day, after a couple more hours of wandering around, I went to Wine Bar 5000. This is a quaint wine bar off the beaten path and sits along a canal where you can watch gondolas floating by while enjoying a glass of wine. This area was also a lot quieter than the busy touristy areas so made for a great break. I didn’t eat here, but they do have cicchetti. Their wine selection is excellent and you have the opportunity to try some amazing local wines.
One of the nights, I went to Il Mercante, a speakeasy style cocktail bar. It was so well hidden that I almost accidentally broke into another store while trying to get in to the bar. They had a very unique menu and selection of cocktails. I usually like more refreshing cocktails that aren’t too sweet and was recommended one that had a seaweed distillate as a base. It had some cardamom as well and initially I was skeptical of that flavor combination, but was blown away by how well all the flavors went together. I couldn’t resist having a second drink – I went with another recommendation from the bartender. It was a lactofermented limoncello, basil and apricot savory drink. Another unexpected but amazing flavor combination. If you’re an adventurous cocktail drinker, I highly recommend visiting Il Mercante, you’ll be leaving wanting to go back to try their entire menu.
Bonus: Garni Hotel Bel Vert
My bed and breakfast in the Dolomites warrants a special shout out. This was the cutest, family-owned hotel and the views from every room are unbeatable. I woke up to the most beautiful sunrise over the surrounding mountains and a gorgeous sunset before settling into bed. A couple days, I grabbed dinner to enjoy on my balcony. The included breakfast is also the perfect way to start your day, especially to fuel up to hike all day.
If you’d like any more information or have questions about my time in Italy, feel free to drop a comment or reach out to me on Instagram!
